Decent Work in Textiles and Garment Production: Analysing the formation of glo-cal perspectives and practices in Egypt and Jordan

The thesis explores the challenge of achieving decent work in global garment and textiles production from the perspective of supplier firms in the Global South. A theoretical framework is developed for understanding and analysing the formation of (in)decent work practices in supplier firms. The framework builds on the concept of crossvergence and captures the multiple, sometimes contradictory glo-cal influences that affect work decisions in supplier firms and takes into account suppliers’ agency when discussing decent work outcomes in supplier firms. It was empirically applied in a qualitative multiple-case study of textiles and garment suppliers in Egypt and tier-1 and tier-2 garment suppliers in Jordan. The field research included interviews with 54 owners-managers from 38 factories, 13 industry and labour experts, 27 workers, multiple field observations, and document research. The findings illuminate how (1) glo-cal factors and factor interactions, (2) human, intellectual, physical, and financial resources of suppliers, and (3) cognitive decent work frames of decision-makers influence decent work outcomes in supplier firms. Based on the findings, the thesis proposes a redistribution of roles and responsibilities in the quest for decent work in global garment and textiles production, captured in a synergistic cooperation paradigm. The paradigm emphasises the institutionalisation of glo-cal initiatives, like the Better Work country programs, in local production contexts, as well as the obligation of the global North to ensure responsible purchasing practices of global garment brands and retailers.